From Fagerviken you can paddle around the island in less than an hour, if you're in a hurry. But if you're looking for relaxation, take a couple of days. However you do it, you'll be rewarded with big experiences in exchange for fairly modest efforts. We have paddled around the island Yttre Gården.
If you launch your kayaks by Nynäs Havsbad on the southern part of Trehörningen island, it doesn't take many strokes before you feel like you're in the outer archipelago. As if to celebrate our appearance, a white-tailed hovers over us as we negotiate the little bridge that connects the spa facility´s sea pavilion with the island. Soon we pass the motorboats that are moored at the little jetty by the sea pavilion. Across the bay is the Nynäshamn Sailing Club and we have soon crossed the inlet, as we follow Bedarön island's western shore, heading north. A family of swans hurries across the water by the fairway markers. By the reef just south of Mamsellholmen island, some gulls are squawking and two cormorants are sitting on a rock, drying their wings after their morning fishing tour. A group of female eider ducks call “gogogogogo", followed by a train of downy chicks. We silently slice through the calm water surface. The birds stay where they are as long as they can, until they reluctantly flap or swim away, just a few metres from the bow of the kayak. This is one of the advantages of kayaks. You are so close to the water. Closer to nature and the birds. Maybe even a bit closer to yourself. After passing the southern tip of Bedarön island I aim for Sängholmen, an island which stands out against the inhospitable western side of Yttre Gården. Sängholmen attracts swimmers all summer, but it's still too early in the morning for any boats to have anchored here. By the south shore of the island we enjoy the company of a smooth snake that nimbly curls away from the kayak, up onto the beach. There are always some tricky swells in the narrow strait between the south tip of Yttre Gården and the rock that makes up the last outpost of Gårdsfjärden, before the open sea opens up to the south and west. We try to follow the rhythm of the water, and keep our strokes relaxed. To the east is Mällsten and to our left is a narrow bay, which is set into the steep cliffs on this side of the island. At this unnamed bay, one of the prettiest in the archipelago according to the few people who go there, it's almost impossible to anchor in a boat. In fact anchoring here is not permitted, and with the swell from the sea and the traffic to and from Gotland and Poland you need a craft that you can pull onto the shore. So a kayak is the ideal vehicle here. The east side of Yttre Gården, the side away from the mainland, offers a few excellent bays for swimming and dramatic cliffs. The archipelago further out to the northeast is the barren type, a popular spot for overnight boaters. For paddlers there are lots of places to go ashore. If you have a tent, you can spend days enjoying superb camping spots. We slip out through Gårdsund, which separates Bedarön from Yttre Gården. From the vast open sea to the start of the inner archipelago. On Gårdsfjärden the boating activity has come alive. A handful of powerboats cruise southward. We pass a group of sailboats taking advantage of the first breeze of the day before we pull our kayaks ashore. In summer, in calm conditions, this is the easiest tour possible. It's a nice introduction to kayaking in the archipelago. Nynäshamn has a kayak club (Kayak Section, Nynäshamn Sailing Club).Nynäshamns kajakuthyrning www.hyrkajak.se Nickstabadet's kajakuthyrning www.nickstabadet.se Nynäs kajak & upplevelse www.nynaskajak.se